Prospectus

To be involved in the KCC SSLA scheme you need to have a genuine interest in rock climbing and in introducing novices to the activity on Southern Sandstone.

The scheme is for those in a position of responsibility during climbing activities on Southern Sandstone. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe enjoyment of the activity.

In order to attend a Training course you should:

• be at least 16 yrs old
• have experience of climbing confidently at up to 4a
• possess the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners.
• have climbed at least 15 routes at more than one crag

In order to attend an Assessment you should:

• have completed a Training course and be familiar with the SSLA syllabus
• be at least 18 yrs old
• possess the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners.
• have climbed at least 30 routes at more than one sandstone crag
• have some experience of working with groups in a climbing situation
• hold a valid HSE approved First Aid qualification
• possess emergency gear which is appropriate when working with groups in this environment.

Syllabus - Training Course

1 Equipment

Equipment Review: Clothing and Footwear
Ropes: Hawserlaid, Kernmantle, Static.
Dynamic 30m, 45m, 50m.
Care and depreciation.
Belay devices including: Sticht Plate (Sprung/Unsprung), Tuber, Body,
Fig 8, Gri Gri, Italian Hitch, S.R.Controller.
Krabs: Steel, Alloy, Screwgate, Snap.
Care and Lubrication.
Belts: Sized, Gear Loops.
Harnesses: fitting to body shape, sized, full body, adjustable, padded, plain, types, buckles.
Helmets: Plastic, Fibreglass, U.I.A.A.
Emergency Equipment

1.1 Ropework and Belaying
Knots: Bowline, Fig 8, Fishermans, Tape, Clove Hitch.
Slings: Tape, Rope, Length.
Setting up Ropes: Picking Belays, Bolts, Roots, Boulders.
Krabs: Types, Loading, Care.
Belaying: Stitch Plate, Body, Fig 8, Gri Gri, Italian Hitch.

1.2 Personal Climbing Skills
Bouldering
Route Selection.
Ropework
Holds
Care of equipment
Technical Competence. Movement on rock
Abseil - setting up for use in emergency
Log book/previous experience

1.3 Background Knowledge
Climbing Guidebooks - Southern Sandstone by Mike Vetterlein, Sandstone South East England Jingo Wobbly Euro-Guides
Other crags
History of Harrisons Rocks and other Sandstone outcrops. High Weald AONB book ‘Sandrock in the Weald’
Current Issues
Risk Assessment

2 The Climbing Environment

2.1 Access
Information in Guide books
Local crag agreements
Southern Sandstone Code of Practice

2.2 Conservation
Good practice in the conservation and care of the Southern Sandstone environment
Southern Sandstone Code of Practice
Southern Sandstone - a Guide for groups (BMC publication)
Minimise impact
Erosion
Flora and Fauna

2.3 Etiquette
Southern Sandstone - a Guide for groups (BMC publication)
Good/Bad practice
Effects of groups upon other users
Walkers, local residents and the climbing community

3 Supervision

3.1 Organisation
Planning - half day and full day programme
Aims and objectives
Other staff, parents
Weather
Responding to changing circumstances - flexible approach
Equal Opportunities
Child Protection- refer to KCC Policy
Managing Risk

3.2 Group Management
Roles and responsibilities - SS Leader, visiting staff/group leaders. Use of support Staff
Group Skills & Management: Briefings. Safe areas and boundaries.
Communication. Climbing calls
Descending. Leaving venues.
Timing. Fun and enjoyment.
Group Safety: Activity while waiting.
Emergencies: First Aid. Personal skills and kit. Ambulance Access. Wardens.

3.3 Supervising the Session
Issue of equipment. Checking equipment
Preparation and warm up
Bouldering: Safety, Ideas, Games, Moving, Competition, Invention.
Route Selection: Safety. Group capability. Progression
Advice and Coaching. Appropriate methods
Problem Solving
Syllabus - Revalidation Course

A session which primarily assesses personal climbing skills. The evidence required as stated below should be identified in the Log Book, which must be presented at the time of the revalidation course

Pass criteria - Minimum requirements;

Presentation of an up to date Logbook which includes;
10 sessions coaching on rock
10 routes per year personal climbing

Current HSE approved First Aid Certificate.

Demonstrate an ability to climb competently at 4a standard

Anybody with experience which is less than this must be questioned about the need to retain the qualification. Unless an exceptional and clear case is presented, a minimum requirement would be to attend a further Assessment weekend.

Candidates for revalidation will be expected to carry and use their own personal gear which will be checked by the assessor before being used

Revalidation can only be carried out by an MIA with a valid qualification, and may be assisted by staff who hold the (minimum) Single Pitch Award and have been approved by the Outdoor Education Officer.

R. I. Hayden
Outdoor Education Officer
August 2002